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Before you start sewage fitting do this







Before you start sewage fitting do this

The most significant thing that you have to care about while undertaking any DIY plumbing and drainage work are the Local Authority regulations which they actively supervise.

The local authority will definitely require you to submit complete drawings of the proposed changes or replacement of your existing drain and sewage system to ensure that your work is in conformity with local rules. However you don’t need to inform them if you are just replacing some damaged parts.

Surface water is basically rain. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water drainage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into a soakaway, watercourse or a surface water sewer. Air escape from the drains is stopped when rainwater pipes are discharged into the foul water drains through gully traps in an older combined system. Nowadays hygiene and recycling considerations have led to a mandatory separation of surface water and sewage water. It’s absolutely crucial that you keep the dirty water drainage system apart from the one for surface water. If you are unsure about the sewage system around your house get advice from the Building Control Department before you start any work.

The first thing to do in a DIY sewage replacement job is to decide the position and level of the waste pipework. The basic thing which you have to care about is to keep the route as straight and short as you can while designing the route of a waste or soil pipe, this will help to reduce the likelihood of obstructions. You should not make your pipe runs very steep although some gradient is necessary. You can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance using a surveyors site level. A hosepipe filled with water from an established datum point can be used if you don’t have a surveyor’s site level.

You need to ascertain that the foundations and structure of the house is safe when digging to install your drain trench. The foundation of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drainage runs parallel to it.

If you try to dig all the trenches before you start pipe fixing, there is a chance of some trenches collapsing. The pipes should be laid quickly and the trench back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.

The trench may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. Avoid risks when working in the ditch. If in doubt add support to the ditch to prevent it from collapsing. The trench should be narrow, but spacious enough for people to work with any required tools. The ditch base must be smooth and clean, there shouldn’t be any bricks or protruding stones around. If the exiting material is not suitable then you may need to import a suitable material for the base of the ditch.

Pipework must be uniformly supported by the soil bed, and not by stones or bricks haphazardly placed underneath the pipes. Even if used for just a temporary support this can damage the pipe. The bedding should be properly compacted with hollows made to accommodate the joints in the pipes. The support should be smooth and even, from the beginning of the pipe to its end.

Make sure that your plans are made in such a way that drain rods are within reach of every part of the network of pipes. So that is why a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points or inspection chambers. As a general rule, any change in direction of the pipework should be provided with an inspection chamber to allow rodding access.

If you follow this guidance, sewage and DIY plumbing can be within the range of the most DIY enthusiasts.

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